Timeless Craftsmanship – Weaving a Modern-Day Coronation
The coronation ceremony of United Kingdom’s King Charles III on May 6th was a true spectacle – elaborate processions and rituals, a dazzling array of jewels and finery. How was it then that a flower crown made of silver thread work that Catherine, Princess of Wales wore is one of the most talked-about details of such a grandiose event?
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A coronation ceremony is not only an event to inspire awe; it is a unifying and uplifting moment, bringing together people from all walks of life in celebration of a common heritage and a shared vision of the future. And Catherine, Princess of Wales, did just that in her subtle and equally gorgeous style – shying away from the usual tiara studded with family jewels, but empowering artisans to create a modern piece that speaks louder than words and looks stunning, while not being ostentatiously bold.
While flower crowns have a long history in civilisation, symbolic of life and new beginnings, they are usually made from freshly cut flowers. Flower crowns in silver and gold are a rare sight, reserved for the royalty and aristocracy. It is not only the material that defines the high value of the piece, but also the very complex techniques used to make it come to life, which require true craftsmanship.
Each step of the creation of a flower crown woven in gold and silver threads requires mastery in a different field. The first step is to create a frame, applying techniques that are in the areas of metalworking and jewelry-making, yet following a fine pre-defined design that is a truly creative process. Then, individual flowers and leaves are separately crafted from silver and gold threads via wirewrapping, weaving, or embroidery. The threads are carefully interwoven to create the desired shape and texture, and are often embellished with precious stones or enamel to add colour and detail. Once the individual flowers and leaves have been crafted, they are attached to the frame using a variety of techniques such as soldering, welding, or riveting. The final step is to polish and refine the crown, ensuring that all the individual components are securely attached and that the overall design is symmetrical and balanced. The result is often a stunning piece of jewelry that showcases the beauty of the material, but also embodies the a multi-dimensional mastery of hands and mind, the fine craftsmanship required to make it come to life.
Throughout history, many queens and other members of royalty have worn flower crowns made of silver and gold threads. A famous example is Queen Victoria, who was known for her love of jewelry with floral ornamentation. She owned several silver and gold flower crowns, including one made by Garrard, the first officially appointed UK Crown Jeweller, in the mid-1800s featuring roses, thistles, and shamrocks.
Another historical figure who had heart for flower crowns made of silver and gold threads was Empress Elisabeth of Austria, also known as Sisi. She was known for her beauty and love of luxury, and she owned several stunning tiaras, including one made of gold and silver with floral motifs. The tiara, which was made by the court jeweller Köchert, featured delicate flowers made of silver and gold threads and was often worn by Sisi for formal occasions.
Flower crowns worn by royalty are masterpieces of craftsmanship and design, typically created by specially appointed crown jewellers. By wearing a contemporarily designed flower crown Catherine, Princess of Wales, honoured the past and connected with generations of royal styles and traditions, yet very delicately introduced a unique personal touch and paid tribute to artisanal work with a more contemporary feel, exquisitely completed by Alexander McQueen and Jess Collett.
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